Burned alternator?

[Halden]

I'm fascinated by that 2.5L engine. But since you changed the alternator, you really should change the oil line that feeds the vacuum pump. The first sign of failure is often oil all over the road, and engine failure.

Jack

Hi Jack, thank you for your reply. Yes it is awesome engine. You mean the hydraulic line or the bottom one? Both looked very good, i plan to replace the clamps and the hoses soon, just to be sure. Especially with the hydraulic one, i am not so convinced that non original would find would be better than old original one so i want to get original one. Replacement is easy as it is all accessible from the hood. Even the alternator i replaced without even going under the car.
Also I am pretty sure i would catch it if it would go bad. I believe the failure would be rather progressive. Dripping first?

At some point my idea was to install electrical vacuum pump. I did it on old K1500 we had in family and it was awesome improvement. In this case also simplification (as on chevy it was fed from engine vacuum). I also drove without vacuum at all, and was not too bad either. Could probably completely remove it.

If there is a vacuum pump on the back of the alternator, there is no gradual failure or signs the oil feed line is about to go, they just break randomly when they get old and drain all the oil from your engine in probably 30 seconds or less.

[Yulia]

Now you made me scared again lol.
Ok, next project is vacuum delete or electric vacuum pump...
Do you have any idea if the engine design requires the flow going through that pipe or is it just connected somewhere where good oil pressure is?
I would just plug it close and drive without vacuum until i get some good electric vacuum pump, probably some OEM from car which has it.

[Halden]

I'd just go to a shop and have a new line made. They're really quite cheap, no sense in modifying something that already works for no performance gain...

[Yulia]

I actually asked in hydraulic shop nearby (for another car) but they do not have fittings like that. Have to search more.

It would not be really performance gain, but reliability - simplification. Not much need for performance here. Everything is close, roads are flat, in off-road i have to use reduction anyway.

[JoeIsuzu]

Specifically the one that looks like a hydraulic line. It can burst without any warning signs. We have had members here who lost all their oil fast enough to destroy their engines.

Some engines use a belt driven vacuum pump, but if you have a/c and power steering, there's not much room for a pump.

Jack

[puttputtinpup]

Many disk brake calipers for cars & motorcycles use banjo fittings. Back in the early 90's i had an 81 Pup diesel. my oil line was seeping oil. I went to a hydraulic shop and like you, they didn't have new fittings either. Upon their recommendation, I took my oil line to a hole in the wall hardware store north of town. He cut off the crimped part, then silver soldered a new piece off a different type fitting. Then installed a new rubber line, crimped them. I was back in business.
Jerry Lemond (jlemond@bellsouth.net) carries new lines for the 2.2 and 1.8 diesels. Maybe he would know if one or the other would work on your vehicle. Then to ship to you.

[Yulia]

Thank you for suggestions, i am now looking for the new oil line or someone who can manufacture it. You scared me

Funny enough here is an isuzu dealer but they do not have even timing belt so, pretty useless.

Plan was to actually do something with the engine shake which is quite strong, but i will see. Would like to improve every month something. So far has been very reliable.

And i have no AC. There is plenty of room, but would prefer either electric solution or well original. Especially on something so unimportant like vacuum.